#3 - The Southwest Chief - Chicago to Flagstaff |
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05/16/2001 We boarded our first generation Superliner
Sleeper about 20 minutes or so from the scheduled departure time. We were booked for
deluxe bedroom "A" in the 0330 car. The attendant directed us to our room
and up the stairs we went to experience the magic if riding in a "Superliner."
As I expected, our entire car, as well as most of the consist, was beginning to show it's
age. The wear and tear of two decades worth of railroading was taking it's toll on this
once proud fleet. Our room was neat and clean but anyone with a railroad eye could tell a
lot of the repairs were "mickey moused." The sink was all banged up. The upper
berth was affixed with all sorts of bungy type cords and other assorted hardware to keep
it intact. The p.a. system did not work in our room either. No problem though. As long as
the climate control and shower worked well, we'd be oh so very happy.
We kept the door to our room open so we could hear the P.A. announcements. The Chief of OBS came on first welcoming all aboard and explaining a few things including the now standard safety first announcement as well as clueing all in on the "big move" to pick up "the freight!" The switcher tied on a selection of Amtrak "freight" equipment including MHC cars, box cars and several Roadrailers.
Sam, the self proclaimed mind you "Everyone's Favorite Dining Car Steward" then made his announcement, assuring us that the "big move" to pick up the freight would be done "faster than the pajamas coming off a newly wedded bride." I laughed my ass off when I heard that and Nannette was shocked! "Oh my God," she said laughing......."I'd be fired if I ever made an announcement like that on an airplane."
This was an "L.A." based service crew and, like Boston, they were known for their many self-proclaimed legends of railroading. I had a hunch this crew would have a couple of these "legends" aboard today.
The Assistant Conductor dropped by and lifted our tickets. He was a very polite, personable guy. After a few rounds of chit chat he moved on, then the Chief, "T.J" made his appearance. He gave us his business card and told us to "contact him if we have any problems or if there is anything we needed." He too was a very pleasant guy and he obviously gave a hoot about this train and his passengers. I saw him helping the dining car crew out several times. He was obviously an asset to the crew.
(Superliner Lounge and a remnant from my favorite railroad.)
Next the "Everyone's Favorite Dining Car Steward," Sam arrived, taking reservations for dinner. We chose the 6:00pm seating. Finally, our Sleeping Car Attendant made his appearance. He asked us if we had any questions about the train or room. When I told him we were "all set" he took that as a cue to skiddadle and off he went into the wild blue yonder.
I took a quick shower prior to exploring the train and all I can say is that these things are true godsends. Our shower worked very well. Thankfully, they replaced the old style shower fixtures with an upgraded version that permits you to adjust the water temperature. Nothing can be finer, than a shower before dinner in the diner.
We took a hike up to the "Sightseer Lounge" for a quick beverage before dinner. The LSA was another "character" indeed. We ordered a beer for me and Nannette had a gin and tonic and of course, his first response was to request an I.D. from Nannette which, of course, made her day. She smiled from ear to ear and he responded with a straight faced, "I'm serious." She smirked, he didn't, then she started reaching for her I.D., then he smirked.
She then asked him why he didn't ask for my I.D. and his response......"Because he's the one with the money."
"This guy is a sharpie," I thought to myself. Another L.A. Legend!
Dinner in the diner of "Everyone's Favorite Dining Car Steward" was indeed quite nice. I had the rib dinner. Nannette had the steak. The service was excellent and both meals were nicely prepared. We shared a table with some nice folks from San Diego who were very regular riders of the rail. They spoke of their wonderful experiences on "The Coast Starlight." I didn't have the heart to tell them the bad news about how that train had been "slaughtered."
While eating dinner I eavesdropped on two gentlemen sitting across the aisle from us. As it turned out, they were both World War 2 vets and were exchanging stories of the "great war." One of the gentlemen was a crew member on a B17 bomber and the other was a foot soldier, who's resume included the landing at Anzio. Two great men. Where else but on an Amtrak dining car, running along the route of the great Santa Fe, can you eat in the halls of the "World's Greatest Dining Car Steward" amidst the company of two true heroes of our greatest of lands! This is exactly why passenger trains are so special to us.
We hit the sack around 9:30pm and both slept quite well.
We woke up around 5:30ish and saw an amazing sunrise. We spent the good part of the early morning watching the sun rise, the big sky become the bluest of blues and watched this great land of cowboys and horses and endless landscapes come alive. What a wonderful route this is.
(Oh, what a beautiful Superliner Morning!)
We had breakfast around 7:30 or so. Once again the service and food were great. I had the "railroad french toast" which wasn't much different from any other french toast I've ever had, but still quite tasty. Nannette had eggs with bacon and "grits." Being a "Louisiana Girl, she is well familiar with "grits." I'll pass, thank you.
It truly amazes me to see just two Service Attendants and the "World's Greatest Dining Car Steward" work a Superliner Diner. Both sides of the car were "packed" and the crew still delivered great service. Our Service Attendant never let us see the bottoms of our coffee cups and did an outstanding job of keeping everyone happy.
We're running about an hour and change late out of LaJunta, CO. Who cares? We have two great seats in the Sightseer Lounge......A front row seat to viewing this great America and the land of endless landscape.
Shortly after leaving LaJunta, the Conductor makes an announcement advising all passengers to please refrain from opening any windows and doors. Apparently a BNSF crew out inspecting our train at an interlocking observed some Japanese tourist hanging out of one of the lower level car entry doors with a video camera in hand.
A short time later we approach the highest elevation on the Santa Fe Railway. The sign proclaiming this weathered and somewhat faded but still bearing the proud Santa Fe logo.
After passing through the tunnel we eventually make our way into Raton, still nothing goin' as usual. Same is it was about 8 years ago on my last visit.
(Ol' Raton, still nothin' goin' on.)
After leaving Raton Station (still over an hour late) we head to the diner for lunch. We both had cheeseburgers that were edible. I wouldn't consider them the greatest cheeseburgers we ever had but they also weren't the worst ones either. I also had chicken noodle soup which was quite good. The strawberry sundaes we had to top off lunch were also a pleasant surprise.
The people sitting at our table during lunch also remarked at what a great job the dining car crew did. It's times like this that make you proud to be a railroader. It's nice to see people who out there giving 100 plus percent........Like most of the people I work with, they just care about their trains and their passengers.
A quick stop in Las Vegas, NM and off we go. Las Vegas, just like Raton and a seemingly hundred other nameless little places along this Santa Fe Route are just quiet little railroad towns with not an awful lot "goin' on."
(They call it Las Vegas and only the ghosts come to play at this old railroad hotel.)
Somewhere east of Lamy, NM (around MP 828, or about a mile or two east of an Interlocking named Canyoncito) the Conductor made an announcement that we were being held up for a BNSF track crew doing work on the single track. Already and hour and a half late, we were going to lose even more time. After a twenty minute wait it took us another 20 minutes to operate through the work area at what seemed like restricted speed.
(Slow running just east of Lamy, NM.)
Approaching Lamy the Conductor requested that only passengers departing here step on to the platform and that there would be a few minutes for the rest of us to stretch our legs at Albuquerque.
We depart Lamy about an 1 hour and 45 minutes late. I can hear echoes of "service vouchers" in the winds already.
The Conductor comes back on to the P.A. and makes a nice announcement about what to expect in Albuquerque. We have dinner reservations for 6:00pm so if we make good time we'll be able to stretch our legs and check out the festivities on the station platform in Albuquerque.
(Our sleeper in Albuquerque.)
We arrived in Albuquerque at 5:45pm or so, just enough time to stretch our legs, then head for our 6:00pm dinner. We checked out the new Albuquerque Transportation Center (a.k.a. railroad station), visited a few of the craftsmen's tables set up on the platform, took a few photos, then boarded the train and headed for the diner.
(Window washers do their thing in Albuquerque.)
We shared a table with a lovely couple who had a very unfortunate experience on Amtrak. They were taking the train cross country, from L.A. to New York, N.Y. to sail aboard "The Queen." Enroute, the poor lady fell while walking through #4 somewhere on the way to Chicago and broke some ribs. They had to cancel their entire trip. What a huge bummer! They were a charming couple, maybe in their mid-70's or so, and they loved taking the train. They had also sailed mnay times on the QE2, so as unfortunate as this may have been, they handled it well. The gentleman told me his wife was handling it very well thanks to the pain killers they gave her in Chicago. She did seem on the happy side.
I had the steak dinner. Nannette had the salmon. Both meals were excellent. Our Service Attendant was Yolanda. She, as was the rest of the dining crew, a true credit to the railroad. I thanked them all for the excellent service they provided us. Top shelf all the way!
We returned to our bedroom and started packing up our belongings. The view from our room had become absolutely outstanding. As we passed each milepost the scenery became more dramatic. It's like we were watching a slide show of miraculous beauty from the comfortable confines of our very own little theatre. It's times and train trips like these that convince you that there truly is........"Something about a train that's magic."
(My, my!)
We arrived in Flagstaff about an hour and a half late. We bid our farewells to a great crew and headed off to the Holiday Inn.
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